Відео

Cardboard makes a good strop

You said you use artificial numbers for this. 1. What microbevel size do you use atm? I use ~0.1mm. As if i go below that if the edge is damaged the deformation can extend into the transition bevel. 2. And whats the widest you keep your transition bevels (when viewed from the side), i think larger than 2mm takes to long to thin. As a transition+microbevel for me is to have high performance without the extreme workload of thinning, so wanting too much performance out of it (lower transition angle) often results in too wide transition bevels that take way too long. 3. Also im unsure if i prefer a clear transition bevel of a given angle, or a convex transition, as that might cut a bit better, but again means a lot more surface to work on... If i use a shallow convex i still microbevel, as that visually ensures me the exact stability i need and not more. Great video btw, i used microbevels before seeing this a few years ago, but it strenghtend my belief in them, and is great for sending to friends on this topic, and is one of my all time favorites. What you show better than most channels, is that the microbevel should be the intended edge angle, not steeper, instead the angle behind it should be shallower. Which increases performance. When i sharpen friends knives, the first time it always takes a moment to add the transition bevel, but every year its a breeze to touch up the microbevel. Hope your still around!

Yeah my impinda was the same when opening up for cleaning. I put it down to salt sweat from my hand. Very surprising though seems they all do it.

10 to 12 cups....!? Slow down bro.

I'm partial to thick choppers like a kukri and I'd like to know if you have any recommendations for a good angle on them. Mostly cutting underbrush.

Thanks for this review I've ordered a NATO looking forward to having a strap that fits me. It's difficult to find a watch strap for men with large wrists.

The break in period is longer with the bigger ceramic decent ball. But once it breaks in oh my lord it is sebenza smooth! Just takes 2-3 months approximately

So this reprofile is making the microbevel taller? Did you do any other thinning work on this Opinel 112?

How does thinning with venev 80/100 compare to thinning with norton crystolon?

Worksharp field sharpener does it all. Diamonds ceramic strop in one.

Thanks for vid, impressive especially when you consider these paring knives generally are cheap ass steels. Speaking of cheap steels, why no burr removal? Based on the paper cutting, there were no burrs.

And ten years later it is still in use all spring and summer.

I like this video❤

There is paradox, when you strop to razor grade, it make even more sharper, but also remove the sawtooth like edge, that reduce the cut speed ability...

Thanks

I think an interesting question is whether the thickness or direction of radius is more important for cutting performance: a thin hollow grind flaring out, or a thicker convex grind, flaring in. Perhaps in different materials there is a breakeven point. slicing only up to below the shoulder, and slicing past it, should constitute two data sets, as the question of resistance offered by increasing angle of deflection as compared to thickness is different than that of the overall cutting effect of a knife, in which one must move past the shoulder. I think convexing the shoulder on the hollow ground knife would offer a third set of data. your thesis seems to be that as soon as the hollow grind begins flaring outward you will have worse cutting performance than of a thicker convex grind that would be radiused in the opposite direction at that point. Of course, at some point this is not true. If we keep making the convex radius larger, we will eventually reach a point where, despite a decreasing rather than increasing angle of deflection, the cutting performance will be worse. The question is if that breakeven point is achieved within the parameters of constant blade thickness and width. We can also look at degree, shape, and orientation of radius for the grinds, IE a greater or lesser curvature, a constant or non-constant rate of curvature, and a symmetrical or non-symmetrical curvature, possibly flaring more towards the spine or the edge. in other words, we have to look for the equivalencies: at what point a hollow grind of type X is better or worse than a convex grind of type Y.

Boring I know. I just want to record this for myself

Nice video. .3mm =300um

Nice Video buddy!😃

As a kiwi hunter I am amazed I have come full circle with my knife journey. I started with videos from Virtuovice and only after deep diving into his videos did i realise Wako got into the convex knife geometry through your original cKc knives which are from New Zealand! Your knives look amazing! Well done on representing Nz and influencing a generation of knife enthusiasts. Ka Pai Te Mahi

Cedric and ada Pete does a series he calls “unleashed” where he does low edge angles like 12dps. Once I started regrinding my knives to sub 10 thousandths I couldn’t go back. It’s how a knife should preform. Nothing to be scared of. I’m making some knives from some 0.090”, and 0.062” stock and I’m excited to see how they preform with full flats, and I’ll experiment with hollows. Always a joy to hear you talk about a subject.

The CKR thumbstuds are hot garbage. All mine get spydie-holes..problem solved.

How long can you use that strop? And is it ok not to spread the compound even, on the strop? Ive stopped using a strop after talking to Cliffstamp, years ago.....he told me that strops tend to microconvex the edge; since then, i used ceramic and a MDF board to refine the edge......whats your opinion on this?

Really great presentation.

Nice to see and hear all of the stuff cliff would mention come out now from you as well. That mind set is lost if no one keeps bringing it up. Never spoke to either of you but I lurked on his forum. Love these videos

As far as production knives with grinds. The Manly Peak and Manly Wasp is probably the thinnest production knife I have at 0.008”. The Microtech LUDT I have is around 0.009” behind the edge. I have a Joe Calton Parer that is about 0.004”-0.005” behind the edge. A Jeremy McCullen Streamside I have is around 0.009-0.010”.

I very much enjoyed your latest videos. I have been using softer steels(not sure what because they are cheap china made clones) for about 1 year now. simply as a curiosity. What I noticed was 1 thing you mentioned here: the edge does last very long(longer than I expected it to), they are much more pleasant to work with(small edge angles and thin grind) and sharpening them, to where they slice paper clean, is very easy.

Thanks for another great video, I will try your advice next time. Still got a 14c28n outdoors knife that needs a regrind. Regarding Cliff stamp, I have never met him or talked to him personally but I miss him. He really did a great service to the knife community.

Good to see you back making vids. I miss Cliff Stamp also. I still can’t believe he past a way last year. How did you find out about it?

Well, said! I am having flash backs of 2014!

Yes very interesting. I know this...i've worked it out roughly over the last ten years about where the cutting is done. I have to like the knives with thickish spine ..nice handle..and nearly full height convex ground very similar to your 6"bladed knife you have in the video. You can cut through virtually anything.i could even pry open wooden boxes with this geometry and still cut anything. They are real hard use knives. They dont have so have a thick edge to be hard use knife.

Great to see you're making new content again. Love it.. Some constructive criticism here... Can you please shoot your videos in landscape mode? You're wearing out the black pixels on my TV.

This is what we've been waiting for.... ❤❤❤

Was there any rolling on the edge of the red knife blade ?? (After trying to cut through the bone,)

Nice sharpening. Had to look up the stone. I generally feel that if I cant apex a new knife I ground with 20 strokes per side at 10-12 dps (given I use M390/Elmax) with a 320 grit it is ground too thick. Did it with my last batch and worked well. Then just refinement for “beauty “ aspects.

with such high secondary edge grinds it becomes hard not to put a micro bevel on the edge

RIP Cliff Stamp,,, ,, my hero,,,,,,

I'm certain now, based on your findings Kyley, that if you were to use a thin stock of 14c28n or AEB-L, then give it the edge geometry you are demonstrating in these videos, you would benefit from not only the cutting performance you are showing but also the added toughness these 2 steels afford. It would then be interesting to see how those theoretical knives would work in a bushcraft environment. Assuming one was intelligent enough to not use them for splitting wood.......

I wish you and a lot of the older knife channels had stuck around a bit longer (no judgment though) to really hit some decent growth because this isn't the type of information you easily find unless you aren't that far off from already knowing it.

I think 95% of the “I chipped my blade on a zip tie” comes from hitting a metal object when you have to gorilla pull the knife through it.

Tuna pie? Oh the humanity!

Kyley cuts as the pride moves in for the kill. LOL

I seem to remember, many years ago, someone claiming they were worried about using their knives with zip ties. I also remember a series of videos, from you and Gavkoo mocking that claim. Do you remember who that was?

I have one of paring knives with a CKC-made kydex sheath. How did that happen?

Looks just like my one!

Glad to see you using the 222 Purple Loctite, you will never have to worry about a stripped screw with that. I just can't get people to try it even though it is specifically made for small machine screws. It is easy to back out with a tool but once dry it will never turn on its own.

Randy just gave me an entire assorted box of diamond stones he discontinued from his shop I will put some in your package for you too play with.

I cut these things all the time and even though my knives are much thicker at the spine...(one of them is 6ml thick), its edge geometry is very thin...it will blast through them so easy...and much much safer.

About to jump from a 1500 grit, just finished with a 10000 chosera as nagura on it, all the way up to the suehiro 10000, they say thats too much of a jump and I would normally agree, I would pull out the papers here normally. but you have reminded me that rules shouldn't always be followed just because they were in the past.